Saturday, April 16, 2016

RUNNING THROUGH THE ANCIENT SILLA KINGDOM : 25th GYEONGJU CHERRY BLOSSOM MARATHON 2016 - RACE REPORT


Dream a little dream…

Imagine running under a gentle shower of snowy white and pale pink petals in invigoratingly fresh air with the soft, cool wind blowing through your hair and the Gyeongju Cherry Blossom Marathon instantly comes to mind.

Cherry Blossom Trees ring Bomunho - Solo Travels in Gyeongju 2015

I could hardly believe my luck when, way back in 2014, I first heard of such a race being held during peak flower season in spring from a Japanese running friend I befriended in the park where I usually do my routine runs. I don’t know of many races that hold their event slap bang in the middle of peak flower or peak autumn foliage season for that matter.

The Gyeongju Cherry Marathon is usually held on the 1st or 2nd Saturday of April, just when the cherry blossoms reach their peak.

Therefore, apparently, it’s not surprising that this race is hugely popular not only with the Koreans but also with Taiwanese, Japanese, Singaporeans, Hong Kong Chinese and even Mainland Chinese. The fact that it’s also held in the beautiful Gyeongju countryside dotted with historic relics from the Silla Kingdom era only adds to its appeal.

Running the Gyeongju Cherry Blossom Marathon - Photo courtesy of organiser

Nonetheless, it was not until a couple of years later when timing and a scheduled holiday enabled me to finally be able to participate in this race scheduled for 9th April 2016. I decided to do the half-marathon category so it wouldn’t leave me so tired that I could not enjoy the rest of my holiday.


Gyeongju – A city rich in historical and cultural heritage

I had been to Gyeongju the year before at the tail end of my solo travels in the deep, far south of the South Korea Peninsula. Hence, the place was familiar to me and I had befriended a friendly owner of a guesthouse and her family during my last stay. Lee Soo Ji and her family had made me feel warm and welcome during my stay at Coolzaam Guesthouse.

Cheomseongdae Observatory - used in ancient times for astronomy

To those unfamiliar with Gyeongju, it is a small city, rich in historical heritage, located on the south east coast of South Korea. Gyeongju or “Seorobeol” as it was known then, was the capital of the ancient Silla kingdom (which ruled about two thirds of the Korean Peninsula between the 7th and 9th centuries) for 1000 years from 57 BC to 935 AD. 

The city was also the capital of Buddhism, Science, Art and Hwarang (Silla Chiavalry). You can therefore imagine the number of historical relics dotted around Gyeongju’s landscape, earning the city it’s nickname of “The Museum Without Walls”.

Being a serious history buff, I simply adore this place. It was easy to just book my accommodation with Sooji, purchase our flight tickets and arrange my own travel itinerary.

However, registering for the race was not that simple.


Race Registration

Firstly, as a foreigner, I found that I was unable to do online registration as certain mandatory fields on the required the applicant to provide a Korean postal address, a Korean credit card and a Korean bank account before registration could go through.
Hence, I was advised by the Marathon Secretariat to download the registration form, fill it up and send a scanned copy over to them via e-mail instead.

Secondly, the payment could only be done via bank transfer from a Korean Bank account into the Marathon Secretariats account. So, I contacted Soo Ji for help.

Thirdly, the race kit could only be couriered to a Korean postal address and not outside the country. Fortunately, in this respect, I also had Soo Ji to help, although I had to do quite a bit of convincing work to the Marathon Secretariat before they agreed to send the race kit to a guesthouse.

Any foreigner thinking to participate in this race without going through a travel sports agent or running club, would have given up at some point or other but not me. I wanted to run this beautiful race as part of my first holiday in Gyeongju and overseas trip with How How. This was to be a special race. So I persisted on and was rewarded with a successful registration in the end. Anyway, I had come across more difficult things than these hurdles so, I didn’t sweat the small stuff.


The Training

To be honest, I didn’t put in much training for this race compared to other races. I had retired from local road racing of normal distances in my home country and was in a chillax mood. I was looking to enjoy the race experience in beautiful environs in a foreign country. 

To add to the chillax feel, my training during the 2 final weeks before we departed to Busan was interrupted with a nagging illness. So I went for the race with below par training compared to other races I had done before this. 

No matter, as said, I was looking for a good race experience instead. I just needed to make sure I could finish the half-marathon injury-free within the cutoff time of 2.5 hours.

Arrival and our Sightseeing began

How How and me were excited as we finally landed in Busan after an overnight flight and immediately caught a direct limousine bus to Gyeongju.

Sooji welcomed us to her home with her usual warmth. She recommended we go immediately to see the cherry blossoms at Bomunho (Bomun Lake) which was where the race was supposed to flag off and end at, a few days later.

Her concern was because rain had been forecasted for the evening and the following morning.

Cycling around beautiful Bomunho

We kick started our Gyeongju visit immediately by cycling to and around Bomunho (Bomun Lake) The cherry blossom trees were in full bloom and glorious against the blue sky. They looked good enough to “eat” to me! Every branch was bursting with beautiful flowers and each gust of wind would bring a shower of snowy white petals drifting around and about us. Such a romantic ride we had on the cycling path towards Bomunho.


Cycling the cherry blossom tree-lined road to Bomunho
The bright yellow canola flowers were also beginning to bloom and Gyeongju was simply popping with pink, yellow, green and blue colors everywhere, especially at the Tumuli Park! Yours truly, was very happy to capture all the beauty onto her trusty camera.


Enjoying the canola flowers at Tumuli Park

It was a good thing we listened to Sooji’s advice because, sure enough, as evening came on and until the next morning, it rained steadily and the strong winds that came with the rain, also blew down all the lovely petals on the trees leaving just bare branches or barely there cherry blossoms still clinging to the branches as though in desperation.

The Gyeongju National Museum

The following morning, we took our time and waited till the rain trickled down to a light drizzle, before venturing out to visit the Gyeongju National Museum followed by Gwaneung Tombs and Bulguksa Temple. 

A visit to Gwaneung Tombs

At Bulguksa, the cherry blossom grove was simply blooming and ripe with beautiful white and pink flowers and so we made the most of our time capturing and choreographing beautiful photos.

Enjoying our walk through the cherry blossom grove at Bulguksa Temple
At Bulguksa























After visiting the temple, How How and me decided to also do a short hike from Bulguksa Temple to Seokguram Grotto through the mountain forest trail. 

Hiking the mountain forest trail from Bulguksa to Seokguram


At Seokguram

Unfortunately, we missed the last bus down from Seokguram Grotto and had to hike back the same way we had come before catching a bus back to Gyeongju town making us very late for dinner with Sooji and her mum and baby daughter at a Vegetarian Temple Food restaurant.

Korean Vegetarian Temple Food

Korean Vegetarian Temple Food


The Korean Vegetarian Temple Food was very nice and it would be the first time I tried such cuisine. The flavours were amazing. How How however, was more of a carnivore and needed his meat so he could not get used to this type of food! Anyhow, it was a very pleasant dinner.



Beautiful columnar joints at the East Sea Area

At Bonggil Beach

At Haeseo-Hang











The following day, we visited the East Sea Area of Gyeongju where we walked the coastral trail named : Pado-Sori-Gil from Eupcheon-ri to Haseo-hang viewing the spectacularly formed columnar joints and rocky cliffs along the coast. This was followed by a visit to Bonggil Beach to view the Underwater Tomb of King Munmu the Great, and then on to the lovely Igyeondae Pavilion for an overall view of the Sea of Japan and the rocky underwater tomb. We dropped by the Gameunsaji Temple site before catching the bus back to Gyeongju.

At Gameunsaji Temple site

As it was still early, we thought we could alight the bus en route and visit a cave temple name Golgulsa, so we rang the bell buzzer signaling to stop the bus. However, much to our chagrin, the bus driver either ignored us or was so busy chatting / complaining to a fellow passenger of his various woes, that he didn’t notice the bell had rung and so we passed our stop to the temple.

Oh well, given the circumstances, seeing that this was also race eve, we might as well return to the town, have lunch, do a bit of shopping, rest have a good carbo-loading dinner and retire early to bed.
  
After dinner that evening, I put on the event tee that came with my race pack just to try it on for size. It looked good and I was in a relaxed mood, finally looking forward to the race.
In retrospect, being in too relaxed a mood did not really bode well because I did not pay attention to what I ate for dinner on race eve that might trigger my allergies.

Wearing the race tee


Uh Oh! Big-time Allergic Reaction on Race Day

The next morning, I woke with puffy eyes (in fact, I could barely open my eyelids at first) and a swollen face. A sure sign that I had eaten something wrong to trigger this allergic reaction. My head felt very heavy and to be honest, I wanted to forego the race and carry on sleeping in my bed.

However, I reminded myself that having come all the way here from Malaysia, going through all that hassle to register myself, the show must go on despite this nonsense allergy. The only cure I knew for this allergy, through past experience, was to sweat out all the toxins and the puffiness and swelling would automatically disappear.

So alright, it was getting dressed, having some breakfast and then, while idling about waiting for the time to step out into the chilly morning air to head for the race venue, I got to know some other guests from Hong Kong and Taiwan, who were also staying in Sooji’s guesthouse and participating in the race. We chatted briefly before leaving for Gyeongju Station together to catch the free shuttle bus to the race venue.

With new friends made at the guesthouse before leaving to catch the shuttle bus
on race day

The race organizers had arranged free shuttle buses to ferry all participants and their supporters as well between 6:00am to 7:00am once every 10 minutes to the race venue. On the return, there were also shuttle buses scheduled to depart back to Gyeongju town from 10:30am to 2:30pm.


With my #1 supporter before the start of the race

The shuttle bus was packed with excited participants from different nationalities. Each one was chatting excitedly to each other in their own language. We reached the race venue early without much ado.

The race arch


Fun aplenty at the Race venue

As there was still plenty of time before my race flagged off, How How and me diverted to the surround park and I had so much fun, momentarily forgetting my puffy eyes and swollen face, instead, thoroughly enjoying myself posing for photos at the Gyeongju World Culture Expo Center and in front of the stage area. 


At the Gyeongju World Expo Center

Dancers performing on stage





There was a huge crowd gathering and cheering on the enthusiastic performers on stage in the chilly morning. Costumed characters were also making their rounds in the venue.

Having fun before the race


At the race venue

Hugging a cute costumed character


The race atmosphere was electric with a very enthusiastic emcee holding the fort. There were traditional drummers and musicians and a band as well. Everyone was in very high spirits. There was a band playing and lots of K-pop music too. Running groups had pitched tents around the race venue where cooking was in full swing to prepare food for their running team members before and after the race.

It was chilly… Bitingly chilly to the bone but all of a sudden, just before the gun went off signaling the start of the race, the sun came out from behind the clouds and began to shine brightly.

A special march with guards adorned in Silla traditional costume and carrying flags was held before the Full Marathoners were flagged off.

Once the Full Marathon category was flagged off, it was the Half Marathon category’s turn a few minutes later and then the 10km and lastly the 5km.

Race Flagoff

Each category was flagged off with a loud bang and with lots of confetti and fanfare. What fun! My category – the Half Marathon was no different. We also had our confetti and band. The clouds in the sky suddenly thinned and drifted away, revealing a clear blue sky with hardly a cloud in sight.

Race flagoff


The Sights, The Route, The Cutoff Time, The Race Support

I was enjoying the sights and distractedly observed people of different nationalities running in their colorful trendy outfits. Koreans and Japanese especially, are very trendy people. I was blissfully aware of a sea of pink and white cherry blossoms dreamily drifting away in the overhead branches on trees lining both sides of the streets.

The course was mildly challenging with some slopes but for the most part, relatively flat. It was good that I had recce’d the route on my first day at Gyeongju so I knew what to expect. 

The race course for the Half Marathon

I was running a 4-min plus pace for the first 10km but slowed down to a 5min plus pace the 2nd half of the race mainly because my mind was wandering and I found myself thinking what would be next on my travel itinerary that day, after I finished my race, and what I would eat for lunch etc.. Talk about distraction! Good grief!

This was however, a very fast course with a strict 2.5 hour cutoff time for the half-marathon, a 1.5 hour cutoff time for the 10km and 5km and a 5 hour cutoff time for the full marathon. Hence, I could not afford to daydream too long!

This race had it’s fair share of enthusiastic supporters as well. Everywhere we ran, every corner we took, I could see and hear school children, Ahjummas (aunties), Ahjushis (uncles), Hermonies (grandmas) and Harabojees (grandpas) waving tiny Korean flags and who cheered us with shouts of “Fighting! Fighting!”.

Running with joy - photo courtesy of Photosports.co.kr

It was so encouraging and morally uplifting that as a result, one would naturally be able to run faster and increase the pace without much effort.

Plenty of water stations with ample water, food and wet sponges were available and this race was one event where I witnessed the best traffic control I had ever experienced. It was so safe to run the roads of Gyeongju. Policemen were very good at directing and controlling traffic. Never once, did the traffic break the flow and rhythm of running for me.
Km markers were also placed at every 1km and were so accurate that my GPS watch beeped the moment I passed each one!


The Heat and Picking Up The Pace to Stay Focused

After taking the u-turn at the 12km mark, the bright sun immediately shone straight into our faces and eyes. I was grateful for the visor I had chosen to wear before the race but immediately began to regret having my arm warmers on. However, stopping to take them off would prove difficult as I my armband had been tied tightly onto them. So I ran on and on.

It began to feel uncomfortably warm and hot, though thankfully, not humid. I started to feel really overdressed and began questioning my sanity in swapping my shorts for long pants instead that morning.

Oh, and my arm warmers again! I just wanted to tear them off! There was barely any wind blowing that day, or at least during the time I was running and I felt so warm, my cheeks were on fire and steam was literally coming out of my ears! I was worried I would overheat like a car engine! I heard later that the temperatures soared to their highest that day at 24 degrees Celsius. It almost felt like Malaysian weather!

At some point, the sun rays got so hot that the skin on the topside of my hands started to feel a burning sensation and it was only slightly past 9am in the morning. That was when I just wanted the race to end there and then. My mind started drifting again to what I would do next after the race.

Thank god for the 1:40 pacers as they ran pass me at that time jolting me back to reality. A crowd of guys stripped down to their waist and complaining about the heat as they ran followed closely behind the 1:40 pacer. I decided that in order to stay focused on the race, I had to follow the pacer too.

Crossing the Finish Line at last!

The Finish

The finish line finally loomed into sight and I kicked up a final sprint to cross the finish in 1 hour 41 min.

I did it! Finished with no cramps nor injury well within cutoff time
Thanks to all that hilarious dreaming, I didn’t expect to do a good finishing time but then again, I wasn’t expecting to do a personal best having being in a poor condition and lack of serious training. Furthermore, I was in holiday mode rather than race mode.



Finishing medal 

Finishing medal 


 So you can imagine my surprise when a Korean volunteer hung a small placard around my neck. I asked her what it was to which she just answered it was my timing.

At the rest area after the race
As no one else I asked at the race finish, could explain what the placard in Korean letters meant, I returned the ChampionChip in exchange for my finisher medal and food, changed into my dry clothing in the female changing tent and then I left the race venue with How How to return to Gyeongju town.

The queue for the shuttle bus back to town was very long and furthermore we had to wait for the bus was under the fiercely hot sun. Judging from the bad traffic around the area due to the road closures, the next shuttle bus would be late in arriving. 

So, we finally decided to fork out the bus fare and ride the public bus instead back to town. Even this option, also took us a good part of an hour to finally arrive in town and grab some lunch before heading back to the guesthouse.

An Unexpected Surprise and My Decision

Sooji was surprised when shown the placard and exclaimed that I had won something. This was so unexpected and I was very surprised. 

My first reaction to myself was “You gotta be kidding right? I won something? Is this by fluke? No way! I thought this was just another special timing badge given for the top 30 participants!” Ha! So much for my poor Korean.

Sooji so kindly helped to call the Marathon Secretariat and it was then that she found out that prizes would be couriered to the winners to the Korean postal address stated in the original registration, although the person at the other end 6f the line could not tell her at that point in time, what position I had obtained.. She would forward the prize to me once she received it.

Immediately, I felt that I would not keep the prize but would give it to Sooji instead as a gift as without her kind hospitality, I would not have had multiple nights of good rest and enjoyed my stay in Gyeongju. I told her to keep the prize and not send it to me instead. 

After all, I had run this race with the mindset of not expecting to win anything in the first place. So if God chose to bless me now, it is only right for me to bless someone else in return.


The rest of our Wonderful Holidays

We wrapped up the remainder of our holidays in Gyeongju with a visit to the Oreung Tombs, Poksijeong Pavilion, a climb up Mt. Namsan to Chilburam Hermitage and Sinseonam Hermitage and then enjoy the night lightup of Anapji Pond on the final night of our stay. 

Resting after our climb up Namsan

Anapji Pond lightup

And the weather strangely returned to very chilly and extremely cold for the remainder of our stay.

The Good News

Upon returning to Malaysia, the moment our plane touched down, I received news from Sooji that she had checked the website and the online results showed I had won 7th place in the Women’s Half Marathon category (there is no age group category for this race).

Furthermore, the prize was KRW 50,000 worth of vouchers. I again told Sooji to keep it as per my earlier decision. I felt happy with that decision. 

It had been an honour running the same race with top national runners from Korea, Singapore, Taiwan, Japan and Mainland China and making it to the Top 10. Even more memorable was to be the 1st Malaysian woman to cross the finishing line in the Half Marathon category. 

This was what money and materials simply cannot buy and will be something I will always treasure with me, enriching my running experience. What more could I possibly ask for?

Before the start of the race

Conclusion

This race has proven to be one of the best race experiences I have ever had. Other than the initial hassle with the registration and the obvious language problem, the race is very well-organized, scenic and fun.

Enjoying a day out at the East Sea area

Now, I believe I have left my heart in Gyeongju as per when I visited it last, the year before. I already miss Sooji, Chae Yeon – her baby girl and her family, especially Sooji’s mum. It was nice giving Ahjumma a warm, good bye hug before we checked out early in the morning. You bet I will return again. =)


Admiring the cherry blossoms at Bulguksa


Anyeongkaseyo!


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